Malawi: sky high to lakeside bliss
In May, I travelled to Malawi for the first time, eager to see what the ‘warm heart of Africa’ was all about. The adventure to Malawi begins long before you set foot on its red earth. Flying Ethiopian Airlines turned out to be a pleasant surprise – on time, friendly crew, decent food, and, in what I consider a personal triumph, my bags arrived with me. Addis Ababa airport has a certain lively energy that only adds to the anticipation. By the time we landed in Lilongwe, I felt like the journey had already become part of the story rather than a hurdle to overcome. Immigration in Malawi is… attentive. Let’s call it a very thorough welcome. Every smile and stamp was a reminder that this country takes hospitality and security seriously, and instead of it feeling like a delay, it gave me time to soak up the fact that I’d finally arrived. Moving through the airport was made seamless thanks to the friendliest meet-and-greet team, who shepherded me from international to domestic with efficiency and warmth. The short hop across the lake to Likoma Island was pure joy. Pilot Matt’s quiet confidence set the tone for a smooth flight, and as we passed over the glittering waters of Lake Malawi, I realised: this was no ordinary transfer – it was the first breathtaking view of what was to come.
And then, Likoma. Kaya Mawa is everything you want from barefoot luxury and then some. Arriving at sunset in an open vehicle, I felt like I’d stumbled into a dream: glowing skies, sandy paths, and the gentle hum of island life. My room, Khuyu, was officially a “standard” room, but nothing about it felt standard – spacious, breezy, polished floors, and a view of the bay that made me wonder if I’d ever need shoes again. Meals here are a highlight all on their own. Breakfast is indulgent and unhurried, lunch might feature chambo fresh from the lake while you watch the fishermen haul in their catch, and dinner is candlelit and set right on the sand. There’s something magical about dining with a canopy of stars overhead and the sound of the waves at your feet – food somehow tastes even better when served with a dose of starlight.
Kaya Mawa bedroom
Days quickly fill themselves. Snorkelling reveals a kaleidoscope of cichlids in colours that seem too bright to be real. Kayaking over to Honeymoon Island is an easy paddle, yet still makes you feel like an explorer. And wandering through the local town with Martin, who seemed to know every single person, gave me a glimpse of the vibrant community life that makes Likoma so special. The warmth and authenticity here stay with you long after you’ve left.
Honeymoon Island on Kaya Mawa
Back on the mainland, the drives became part of the joy. Malawi’s roads are full of character – sometimes smooth, sometimes dotted with potholes that add a little bounce to the ride! But that’s exactly what makes them wonderful: you watch the country shift before your eyes, from rolling hills to bustling markets, from villages alive with chatter to vast open spaces. Driving is the best way to see Malawi slowly unfold, and every stop brings something new – a roadside market, a pottery workshop, even a spontaneous chat at a police checkpoint (always with smiles).
Each lodge I visited had its own personality, like characters in a great novel. Pumulani, perched on the shores of Lake Malawi, was the lively extrovert of the bunch – vibrant, full of energy, and wonderfully family-friendly. Days here slip easily between paddleboarding, kayaking, and lazy dips in one of the two pools, before heading out by boat to snorkel around Thumbi Island. Like Kaya Mawa, if you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to swim inside a jewellery box, this is it – the fish shimmer in golds, blues, and silvers so bright you half expect them to start singing. Back on land, sunset dhow cruises feel impossibly romantic, the lake glowing pink and orange as the world slows to a standstill.
My sunset dhow cruise on Lake Malawi
Kuthengo Camp in Liwonde was the dreamiest kind of safari experience – welcoming, stylish, and still wild enough to remind you you’re in Africa. Reaching camp by boat along the Shire River, passing hippos snorting in the water and malachite kingfishers flashing their iridescent blue wings along the banks of the river, felt like arriving on a secret film set. The tents at Kuthengo are elegant and spacious, with views that stretch across the river where elephants wander as if on cue. Nights here come alive with the chorus of the bush and sightings of florescent coloured chameleons, while days are packed with lion and cheetah sightings, punctuated by stories from guides who know every rustle in the grass.
Malachite Kingfisher
Then came Huntingdon House, the grande dame of Malawi’s tea country. Built in the 1920s, this historic estate oozes old-world charm. You can almost hear the clink of teacups on verandas and imagine the swirl of a bygone garden party. Surrounded by endless rows of tea and coffee, the grounds are lush and full of surprises, from follies tucked into the gardens to trails perfect for cycling or strolling. Sunsets here are a painter’s dream, the fields glowing emerald and gold while you sip tea (or, let’s be honest, a gin and tonic).
And then there was Mkulumadzi in Majete, a lodge straight out of an adventure novel. To reach it, you cross a rope bridge swaying gently above the river. It was the kind of entrance that makes you grin and think, Yes, this is proper safari. The lodge itself is set high over the same Shire River, with an infinity pool that seems to spill into the wilderness. The surrounding bush is thick and untamed, the kind that makes every rustle exciting. Lions prowl, wild dogs streak through the reserve, and the night sounds are a symphony of Africa at its rawest. Yet, despite the wildness, the lodge manages to wrap you in comfort and warmth, with hosts who make you feel like part of the family.
Wild dog at Mkulumadzi
Lilongwe bookended the trip, and while Latitude 13 was perfectly fine for a quick stop, the boutique Green Elephant stole the show with its charm, honesty bar, and sense of calm luxury. For families, Burley House felt relaxed and homely, the kind of place you could happily end, or even start your trip on a gentle note.
What struck me most about Malawi wasn’t just the scenery – though the lake shimmering under the sun, the tea plantations glowing at dusk, and the wide, wild landscapes certainly steal the show. It was the people. Everywhere I went, I was met with warmth, kindness, and genuine smiles that made me feel less like a visitor and more like a welcome guest. Malawi isn’t about rushing from one place to another, it’s about slowing down, embracing the journey, and letting the country reveal itself in layers. Whether it’s kayaking into a sunset, sipping tea on a plantation, or listening to lions calling at night, this is a place that leaves you with stories worth telling and memories worth keeping.
Riverside tented rooms at Kuthengo Camp
What next?
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