Khwai Skybeds – a night under the stars like no other
If there’s one experience I’d suggest to guests who are visiting Botswana, it’s the Khwai Skybeds. Utterly unique and hands down one of the most magical things to do.
Khwai Skybeds is where the simplicity of a bush camp meets the grandeur of the Botswana sky. Set within the Khwai Private Reserve, these unique, two-storey “star-beds” offer an authentic, off-grid retreat featuring open-air sleeping quarters and private views over a wildlife-rich waterhole.
Khwai Skybeds as dusk falls
There are just three raised skybeds here, each looked after by a dedicated team of three staff who make the occasion feel wonderfully personal. The setup is simple but stunning – open to the night air, with the waterhole just below and the sounds of the bush wrapping around you. At night, the waterhole comes alive – elephant, lion, and all manner of wildlife drift in to drink, and you can hear it all from your bed. It’s surreal in the best possible way.
The beds themselves are incredibly comfortable, dressed in thick linens and protected by huge mosquito nets with clever fabric panels above bed height that provide privacy as well as block any wind that may travel through, all the while keeping your view of the stars perfectly clear. On a full moon, the light can be dazzlingly bright. I would recommend packing a sleeping mask just in case.
Watching the sun set, Sophie enjoys a moment of reflection
Dinner is a real highlight. It’s a wonderfully interactive affair, with the chef explaining how the traditional “poke pot” works and demonstrating the use of the springbok fork to lift it when it’s piping hot. It’s relaxed and genuine, and guests are made to feel like they’ve helped cook supper, without any awkwardness. It’s fun, social, and full of laughter. Pudding by the fire, chatting with your guide and gazing up at the canopy of stars overhead is the perfect way to end the night.
Delicious traditional local cuisine
The walking safari the next morning is a real highlight. The distance is manageable, giving a different perspective of the bush, focusing on the small details that usually go unnoticed. Our guide, Zazu, was brilliant: a perfect mix of humour, deep knowledge, and genuine passion. We learned so much and giggled just as much.
You start and finish your skybeds adventure from Elephant Pan – whether you drive in from Sable Alley (as we did) or arrive by helicopter. The journey to skybeds includes a stop at the hide, which is an absolute must. Even if at first it feels like you’re just sitting quietly watching sandgrouse and Cape turtle doves, patience is rewarded – we eventually saw huge bull elephants, a herd of around 100 sable, plus impala, kudu, warthog, and even more elephants. It was spectacular.
Spectacular viewing at Elephant Pan underground hide
After a night under the stars, we hopped onto a helicopter (my first time, which, if I’m being perfectly honest, is the only way to travel anywhere from now on) and arrived at Mokolwane, which completely stole my heart. This is the epitome of the Okavango Delta – winding waterways, herds of elephant, pods of hippo, and endless birdlife. The camp is unfenced, the atmosphere easy-going, and the food is superb.
Sophie takes her first helicopter flight
The river cruise sundowner here is up there with one of my favourite experiences of the trip. Floating between papyrus and water lilies, watching elephant crossing the channels, stopping on a sandbank for drinks with your feed in warm, fresh water (and a bit of fishing too!).
On our wildlife drive the next day, having jetted across the water to where our vehicles were parked, we headed out eager to see what would unfold in front of us. We happened to bump into Greg Hartman, one of the guides and cameramen behind the BBC series Big Cats 24/7. One of the truly unique aspects of staying at Mokolwane is that the BBC film crew are often nearby, and they have a fantastic relationship with the camp’s guides. They regularly share sightings with one another – whether it’s lion, leopard, wild dog, or even cheetah – making for some incredibly exciting wildlife drives.
Mokolwane big cats
Whether you’re falling asleep to the rumble of elephants beneath your bed or floating through the lily-choked channels of the Delta, these are the moments that stay with you long after the dust has settled. Trust me – once you’ve seen the stars from your pillow and the Delta from a helicopter, the ordinary world will never look quite the same again.
What next?
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