Why São Tomé and Príncipe stole my heart

The email asking me if I fancied a new adventure threw me. Knowing who it was from, St Tropez seemed an unlikely destination, and I thought that even if I did get Kiribati mixed up with Palau, I had at least heard of all of the 200 countries in the world, so where was this unknown place? The Caribbean? South Pacific?
As always, Wikipedia came to the rescue and wow, what a revelation! 150 miles off the Gabon coast, São Tomé and Príncipe, at 2 ½ times bigger than the Isle of Wight, is the second smallest country in Africa, has a population less than Plymouth and is the second least visited!
From the moment we arrived at the tiny airport, we were surrounded by the ‘leve leve’ no stress atmosphere and wonderful climate. Whisked away to the pool at our 5* Omali Lodge, five minutes from the airport, we were ready to begin our island adventure.
We had eight days exploring the island’s fascinating 500 years of Portuguese rule, a plantation economy, firstly sugar cane, then coffee and at the beginning of the 20th century, the largest producer of chocolate beans in the world. The huge, crumbling ‘Rocas’, complete self-sufficient towns now being slowly reclaimed by the jungle, are amazing, and the small capital is itself steeped in history.
Up into the hills, the pristine rain forest rising to 2,045 metres with dramatic views and impressive waterfalls, the botanic gardens are a must.
We headed down the coast for a delicious eight course meal of local delicacies prepared by the island’s leading exponent of São Tomé cuisine chef Joao Carlos Silva at Roca Sao Joao and then passing 5 cars in 2 hours and innumerable beautiful beaches and the extraordinary 800 metre vertical rock tower of Pico Cao Grande arrived at the island of Ilheu das Rolas that straddles the Equator.
Back to the city, a visit to the market with all the hustle and bustle of Central Africa but none of the stress was a ‘must’, and of course, we couldn’t get away without a trip to the best chocolate maker in the world, Claudio Corallo!
Then came the most out of the world part of our trip; a 45-minute flight took us to the tiny island of Príncipe with a population of 8,500 and the smallest capital city in the world! The island has some of the world’s most pristine beaches and rainforest and is the project of the billionaire South African Mark Shuttleworth who has ploughed huge sums of money into the island to protect the rainforest from palm oil plantations and over time restoring some of the islands dilapidated Rocas starting with Roça Sundy to the former glory days including stables, hospital workers quarters and all the buildings that were needed to run plantations with huge numbers of workers.
We also stayed at his beachside luxury hideaway, Sundy Pria and the world-famous Bom Bom , all with world-class standards and very few guests.
So why go to São Tomé and Príncipe, and by the way, I will be going back!
Well, it’s a taste of Central Africa with no hassle, an undiscovered safe adventure. The people are truly delightful and fun, the climate is perfect, the beaches, accommodation, and rainforest are world-class, and the history is fascinating.
Sure, it’s underdeveloped, but that makes it a proper adventure untroubled by any of the hassle of mass tourism, and you can be back in your 5* hotel from anywhere in 3 hours!
Go there, you will LOVE it!
Managing Director, Alice, has been on the ground, personally exploring these stunning islands. Based on her trip, she’s designed two Aardvark Safaris suggested itineraries that she feels truly capture the absolute highlights of São Tomé and Príncipe.
- Explore the best of both islands in 14 days
- Short on time – this 8 day itinerary gives you a good rounded experience of both islands
Read more: Idyllic beaches of São Tomé and Príncipe – Fun facts about São Tomé and Príncipe – A guide to São Tomé and Príncipe
Listen:Our Managing Director, Alice, recently joined the Action Packed Travel Podcast to discuss one of Africa’s best-kept secrets: the enchanting islands of São Tomé and Príncipe.
What’s next?
Get inspired and sign up to our free Insiders Guide to Africa. We would be delighted to help with planning your perfect safari holiday, whenever you want to travel. Our team of experts has travelled widely throughout Africa and the Indian Ocean and can offer expert advice. Do get in touch – chatting to people by phone or email is what we do best. We listen, we explain, we answer all sorts of questions even those you didn’t know to ask, and finally we make suggestions. If this is your first time to Africa or your twenty first, we have a team standing by to help make the planning easy and the journey the best ever. Please get in touch whatever stage you’re at.









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