The lost world of Lolldaiga
Julia Cassels is an artist known for her vivid paintings and sculptures of African wildlife. She developed a deep understanding of her subjects while living in Zambia and Tanzania for a decade, which enables her to capture the essence and movement of the animals in her work. At the start of this year, Julia embarked on an artist-in-residence program in Kenya, and she shares her story with us here.
Julia watching a magnificent sunrise over the Lolldaiga Hills
An artist’s dream…
A magical wildlife conservancy in the folding hills of the Laikipia region, just northwest of Mount Kenya and the Aberdares. Lolldaiga is 50,000 acres of the most breathtaking landscapes: from its enormous cedar forests and high rocky peaks to open savannahs, rolling grasslands, arid desert plains, riverine glades, waterholes and lakes. In short, the whole of Kenya condensed into one glorious place.
With altitudes from 1,700 to 2,300m, the views across to the snow-capped Mount Kenya are truly magnificent. Such a variety of topography offers an area incredibly rich in wildlife and bird species. Apart from the iconic wildlife of lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, giraffe, hyena and antelope, you might be lucky to spot the bat-eared fox whose den we found in the Northern Valley, a striped hyena in the early dawn light, or the elusive wild dog passing through. Or, if extremely lucky, a splendid colobus monkey high up in the cedar forest.
Views of Mount Kenya
The camp, “Moon’s Camp” is small, bespoke and intimate, beautifully authentic with a nod back to the 1950’s, complete with vintage series 2 Land Rovers. With such low impact on the environment and a strong focus on sustainability, you are truly embedded in this magnificent wilderness. And the best thing of all, being the only camp, you have the whole conservancy to yourselves.
The simple but comfortable tents with views of the hills
This was my home for the first three months this year as Artist in Residence. An art residency like this is a chance of a lifetime, an incredible gift and the inspiration of the visionary owners of Moon’s camp and Safari Series, Ed and Moon Hough. They so love the landscapes of Lolldiaga and all it offers, that they want artists to experience it too, keen to see how we react, describe and interpret it through our work.
‘It was such a joy to have Julia with us as our artist in residence. Her time here, like all our artists, felt fleeting – but in that short period she filled our tented home, Moon’s Camp, with energy, creativity, and a spirit of adventure that our guests loved. Guests were captivated not only by her artistic talent but also by her warmth and generosity in sharing her process. Julia’s watercolours carry a life and vibrancy that reflect the landscapes and moments she experienced here, and we feel so fortunate to have witnessed their creation first hand. We can’t wait to see them come together at her exhibition, a true celebration of her time with us.‘ – Moon Hough
Moon and Ed Hough pictured in one of their vintage Land Rovers
Having lived in Zambia for several years, then Tanzania, part of my heart has always been in Africa. But here in Kenya it was new. The light, the colours, and even the trees were different. I just loved the large fever trees with their gorgeous lime-yellow undulating trunks, and the dams in the early morning light with water as glassy as a mirror. It was a privilege to have the time to absorb the wildlife around me, learn their movements and behaviours. The camp itself was filled with birdlife, and I could easily spend mornings sketching and painting the fire finches, doves and mousebirds flocking in the trees, or head down to the waterhole to catch the red-headed weaver making its nest.
A white-bellied go-away bird
I’d come back from wildlife drives, a sketchbook full of squiggles to put quickly into paintings while still fresh in my mind. Later on I took the Land Cruiser pick-up, deep into the conservancy to explore. Using it as my mobile studio I’d stop by one of the dams or on the higher ground over in the Northern Valley to paint. Perched in the open back of the pick-up with my paints, I’d watch herds of elephants, zebra and Grants gazelle taking it in turns to come down to drink. With no one around for as far as the eye could see, it was so breathtakingly inspiring. Views of Mount Kenya were ever present from all over the conservancy. Her watchful gaze always serenely beautiful, and at the end of the day a reassuring guide home to camp.
A pair of elephants
The Art Residency was the most amazing experience, made even more special by the uniqueness of the Lolldaiga Conservancy itself. The generosity and kindness of all the staff at camp, especially from Jimmy the manager, was exceptional and something I will treasure and never forget. The extreme dramatic beauty of the landscape will remain with me always, and I can’t thank Ed and Moon enough. As I write this I am currently in the process of putting all my paintings together for my forth coming solo exhibition, the culmination of my time at Lolldaiga, which is kindly being sponsored by Aardvark Safaris. It would be lovely to see you there so I can show you a little of Lolldaiga’s magic. I only hope I have done it justice.
Julia Cassels’s painting of a Maasai warrior
What next?
Building on her recent success as winner of the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation’s Watercolour Award, Julia’s exhibition, Kenya and Beyond, will be on display at Cricket Fine Art in London from 5–21 November 2025. The collection highlights her latest work inspired by Lolldaiga Conservancy’s landscapes and wildlife, alongside pieces that reflect influences from further afield.
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